For over 20 years, Gray's Papaya has sort of functioned as the Statue of Liberty ("give us your tired, your hungry..."). It constantly prints clever advertisements that fill its windows and laud its many accomplishments ("The biggest bargain in Manhattan!"). It's a kind of indoor hot dog cart with a counter amd gaudy paper fruit decorations hanging from the ceiling. And those allegedly healthful whipped fruit drinks, those infamous hot dogs...it all makes for great theater, Coney Island-style.